There are many names you might think of when it comes to jewelry design in the 20th century, from fine jewelry houses that dominate the market to this day to luxury fashion designers with an expanded product assortment. But one that deserves an especially honorable mention is Marcel Boucher, one of the century’s most loved costume jewelry designers. 

Below we’ll be sharing everything you need to know about Marcel Boucher and his iconic designs, many of which have become coveted collector’s items in our modern era. 

Early Life and Career

Born in Paris in 1898, Marcel Boucher’s talent for art and design flourished from an early age. The future jewelry pioneer was primarily raised by his seamstress mother, as his father died when he was young. Not much is known about Boucher’s childhood, but one can guess his mother and her profession played an influential role in his future endeavors. 

Marcel’s design career officially began after he completed his volunteer work for the Ambulanciers Corps Français during World War I. He started off in good hands, landing an apprenticeship at the esteemed jewelry house Cartier. It was here that he learned the foundations of jewelry design, bringing sketches to life as a mold-maker.

During the 1920s, he took a leap of faith and decided to move to New York to enrich his jewelry making practice and continue his education. 

Transition to Costume Jewelry

Like many American workers in the 1920s, Marcel’s career was challenged by the arrival of the Great Depression. The ambitious designer persevered through the economical hardships, honing his craft through freelance roles until he landed a full time job at the costume jewelry firm Mazer Brothers.

Marcel’s introduction to costume jewelry was likely a result of the times. Costume jewelry’s popularity peaked during the Depression, when the high cost of fine jewelry was out of reach for most of the population. Whether Marcel transitioned out of necessity or saw a lucrative opportunity is unclear, but this decision was the start of a great career. 

Establishing Marcel Boucher Ltd.

After working with Mazer Brothers for almost a decade, Marcel branched out and established his own jewelry company in 1937. His fine jewelry background and technical expertise shone through his pieces, and the jeweler found fast success with his eponymous line. He cultivated a loyal following of jewelry collectors, and his pieces were displayed in prestigious department stores and high end boutiques alike. 

Marcel was known for his distinctive style and meticulous craftsmanship. Jewelry lovers turned to him for premium quality costume jewelry; details such as heavy rhodium plating, vibrant enamel, and high quality faux jewels made his designs comparable to his fine jewelry counterparts.

All of the designer’s talents came to the surface during his entrepreneurial era. He proved himself to be a clever businessman and innovator, patenting six unique jewelry mounting mechanisms while at the helm of his company. One of his most famous inventions was the double clip brooch, a design that has been replicated a countless number of times since its debut. 

Success and Legacy

Marcel Boucher’s company thrived throughout the 1940s. Many collectors consider this time to be the golden age of costume jewelry; the designer released some of his finest creations during this time. 

This decade was a pivotal time for the business in many ways. 1941 saw its rebrand to Marcel Boucher et Cie, and in 1949 the company welcomed a new employee that would change Marcel’s life and business for the better. Sandra Semensohn, a French watch designer and businesswoman, became a perfect partner for Marcel in life and love. She brought a wealth of experience to the team, having previously worked for the prestigious fine jewelers Harry Winston and Tiffany & Co. The design and business duo got married in the early 1950s, and remained close partners until Marcel’s death in 1965.  

Sandra’s impact contributed to the lasting success of Marcel Boucher jewelry well after the designer’s passing. She continued to run the business until 1970, when it was sold to Davorn Industries. Even after the sale, Sandra remained on board as the company president and played an active role within the design team. Eternally loyal to her husband and business partner, Sandra worked hard to ensure the Boucher legacy was preserved for future generations.

Design Elements

Marcel Boucher’s jewelry was known for its elevated craftsmanship, intricate details, and timeless elegance.

His designs often drew inspiration from nature, replicating the world’s most beautiful flora and fauna in a striking and chic manner. From birds of paradise to tropical fruits and dazzling blooms, Marcel Boucher was the king of crafting exquisite statement pieces. 

The Mark of Excellence

Marcel Boucher jewelry is often marked with the designer’s initials, surname, or signature and a copyright symbol – these markings are easy ways to determine authenticity. Certain pieces may be marked under different names, such as Marboux, d’Orion, or Avon of Belleville – these were all jewelry lines created under or linked to the Marcel Boucher name. 

• Marboux was one of the last Marcel Boucher jewelry lines created by the designer himself. It was released in the early 1960s as somewhat of a diffusion line. It had a slightly lower price point and quality level than the main Marcel Boucher collection. Despite this, Marboux pieces are still well-crafted, in-demand vintage collectibles. 
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• Marboux Brooch
• D’Orion was launched well after Marcel’s passing in 1979 by D’Orlan Industries, the company that eventually bought the Marcel Boucher business. D’Orion pieces are recreations of Boucher’s original designs, and were actually crafted using his original molds. Authentic pieces should have a D’Orlan marking alongside a Marcel Boucher design inventory number. 
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• D’Orion Brooch
• Avon of Belleville’s direct links to Marcel Boucher aren’t as strong as Marboux or D’Orion, but it’s believed that the name references one of Marcel’s distributors from Belleville, New Jersey.
• Avon of Bellville

Like any major designer or brand, Marcel Boucher has fallen victim to duplicates and fakes. Authentic pieces are a rarity in this day and age, which is why we’re proud to offer a selection of genuine vintage Marcel Boucher designs on our website and eBay store.  

Marcel Boucher’s impact on the world of jewelry is undeniable. His technical prowess and dedication to quality brought costume jewelry to a new standard, making sophisticated designs accessible to the masses. His influence lives on today in both the fine and demi-fine jewelry spheres. 

Add Rareness To Your Collection With Grandma’s Jewelry 

Looking to add a touch of whimsy and distinction to your jewelry collection? Our authentic Marcel Boucher pieces will be perfect for you. 

Our curated selection has something for every taste, from dazzling florals to feminine bows and adorable animal motifs. These are pieces you can count on to bring your look from ordinary to exceptional, whether you’re wrapping a bracelet around your wrist or popping a brooch on your collar. 

Let this iconic designer’s legacy live on by finding your dream Marcel Boucher piece today on our website or eBay store! 

Boucher Jewelry at Grandmas jewelry